SEVEN DAY CYCLIST
CYCLING, BUT NOT USUALLY RACING

Specification/Science Bit

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The link lube dry employs a blend of synthetic waxes, trafficked by a water-based carrier-similar to the Bat Wax Steve tested recently. In theory at least, synthetics are more easily tuned for specific characteristics: cleanliness, durability and temperature stability being the most obvious aspirations. 

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Wax lubes using solvent carriers will race deep into the chain’s moving parts but can be quite messy to apply. Traditional petrochemical waxes can also turn liquid, or not penetrate so effectively, depending on the temperature. After all, it can be cool and dry.

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Application 3/5

 

Very straightforward, although it’s imperative you start with a surgically clean drivetrain-all pre-existing chain lube, including the factory stuff. Don’t forget the cassette, rings and derailleurs-especially if you’ve been running wax, or wet lubes. Otherwise, it won’t adhere to the chain properly.

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Shake the bottle to blend everything, pop the spout and drizzle into each link. It emerges as a minty green, so easy to see where you’ve been and of course, any dry links. Expect a few small splashes on the floor, so best applied and topped up, outside. If you’ve been a little generous, on a derailleur setup, simply shift through the gears, distributing the excess across the cassette, so it can be reclaimed as you ride. 

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Curing times depend on temperature. Peaty’s say between a few minutes and a few hours, depending on whether its “hot or cold and damp”. However, they say for best results apply the night before. In my experience (in temperatures